Common Sense in Caning -- Cane Materials, Makes, Models and how to choose!

When buying a cane, it's important to know not only what size you want, but what you want to be made out of.  Getting a cane based on looks generally means adding something useless to your credit card bill.

As a beginner, there's no point shelling out $80 to $100 for an exotic wood rattan cane (purple heart, zebra wood, paduak), when you're going to have to replace the rattan rod part in 6 months and have neither the skill nor tools to do it.  As an experienced masochist, a basic thin hardwood or rattan is going to leave you high and dry ... and no Sadist wants their masochist "dry".    

 

Materials:  

 

Hardwood - (red oak, maple, white oak, hickory, ash) --  Finger-thin rods are a warm-up for most.  A Victorian sexy prop for scene play, a professional Domme's first tool, and a wicked, affordable cane for beginners. But if you use a wooden cane like it’s a poly cane, you’re going to wind up feeling cheated by the scene and the cane. They create beautiful welts, and a nasty sting that anchors you right down with Authority (by god!)

Unfinished hardwood canes should be maintained by rubbing with linseed oil to preserve flexibility. Dried canes may crack from lack of moisture or excessive force. They are generally more affordable among cane options.

 

Rattan Canes  (tiger cane, striped tiger, burned rattan) --  Rattan canes are also basic.   They’re lighter than anything else and generally exceptionally flexible - yet still tough enough to leave deep stinging marks.  They can be used for heavier play in thicker widths, but they require more maintenance than others to be worth the expense. They can be a lot more forgiving when the cane is wrapped or hits at a bad angle.  

Maintaining Rattan – again, linseed oil rubbing, and the occasional sanding to allow the oil to penetrate more deeply.   They also tend to be the lower-to-lowest end of expense, in terms of canes. 

 

Acrylic Canes (lucite, plastic, 'window canes') --   There are going to be people (sales people) who will tell you Acrylic is no different than Delrin or Lexan.   Smack them.    Hard.  Acrylic is cheap for a reason. 

Acrylic has some major issues, from the kink perspective.   Acrylic will slowly harden with exposure to UV (you know, light?) or repeated impact. And hard canes this low on the list are a bad thing.  

But…acrylic stays clear and attractive for longer than lexan and can be used (when hollow) to encase “RAVE lights!”   So, you know, if you’re going to be doing a scene at an EDM show, go for it.   It makes great display canes as you can fill it with “cool stuff” like chain or plastic flowers and then seal it with clear resin.  When new, it bends as fluidly as rattan.    And acrylic is definitely on the "less expensive" part of the list for a reason.

 

Delrin or Resin Canes - (acetal, delrin, resin) --    Delrin canes are made from an extruded acetal resin, which was originally meant to be used to make stress-bearing machine parts, load-bearing binding rods, and high impact sheets.   Which means it can be extremely flexible, or extremely hard – and both options come with massive resistance to impact damage.   So you can use them heavily for years and YEARS.  

Delrin canes, because of the wide range of thickness and hardness, are great for everything from beginners to heavier play, and heavier masochists.   A light wave or flick of a thicker rod gives you “thud”.   A heavy smack with pull through (see the lesson coming soon!) – and you get something very much like a signal whip.      Delrin canes require no maintenance other than the occasional straightening-by-rebending.    They are in the lower mid-range of cost, for canes. 

 

Lexan Canes (polycarbonate, poly canes, lex canes) --   Lexan canes are heavier than delrin or acrylic.   It ranges, depending on rating, from heavy and flexible, to hard and heavy as a rock.   (Lexan on the hard end is called "polycarbonate sheeting" and is known as bulletproof glass.)  

Lexan canes are great because they leave a heavy deep impact.   They flex just enough that you can get a repeating bouncing pattern going quickly.   Again, lexan canes require no major ongoing care.   They are in the upper mid- range of cost, for canes.

 

Fiberglass Canes (glass core canes, FC or FG canes) --   Fiberglass canes are, literally, a bitch.   They have weight and density that often rivals metal canes.    Fiberglass canes are unforgiving.    That said, they go from rock hard to brittle with little warning, after developing stresses from repeated impact.  Look over the cane every use or two to make sure it hasn’t developed cracks or wear.    If it has – GET RID OF IT IMMEDIATELY.   Broken fiberglass on skin can be an ER situation. 

 

Metal Canes (steel canes, aluminum, copper) --   Aluminum and steel canes are for serious masochists.   Copper canes, unless you're HEAVILY into electrical play --- are a gimmick, for the steampunk look.   Aluminum is light (most blends, at any rate), while remaining as hard as steel.

Steel has much more weight with similar stiffness.  Which means it can "thud" instead of sting.  All metals cause deep penetration, resulting in some pretty wicked bruises.   They are not for beginners, or warm up – these are canes to build up to!   They tend to run in the higher range of cost.  If you buy a good one, it should be (and be advertised as being) electrically conductive.   Pair it with a violet wand probe attachment to make sparks fly.   Literally.

 

Exotic Canes (paduak, "african hardwood", wenge, oakheart, ironwood, purple heart --- google "janka hardwood" for a full list) --    These are case by case.   Most of the “designer” in designer cane is in the handle, finished with a (massively less expensive) rattan or delrin rod.  Those using the wood all throughout the cane will be $$$$.  While most exotics ARE extremely hard -- they are also RARELY milled into dowels long enough for caning.   Worth it, if you want your own style as a professional, or an experienced lifestyler with money to burn.   View the makers of Designer canes (KJ Canes is one of the best) as artisans – when you have the money, their work is worth every penny.  

 

And finally --- 

 

Carbon Fiber Canes (CF, or carbon) --  These are just plain vicious.   Imagine the hardness of steel, with the thinness and weight of rattan.    Every time you use these, you're essentially using a straight whip to scourge and punish padded posteriors.   (great alliteration, right?)    

That said, if you're going to invest in a cane, CF can be used lightly for beginners, and grow with you as you play (just like how Delrin can) -- except that CF can be used for MUCH stingier, harsher play than Delrin, while Delrin can be used for thuddy play (something CF will never be).